Article Written by: Zainab Anwar
Cover Design by: Zainab Anwar
The baby tees, the shoulder bags, the velour outfits, the low-rise jeans – all only snippets of the late 1900s and early 2000s fashion trends that have re-emerged as the notorious “y2k” aesthetic. With #y2k garnering over 10 billion views on TikTok, the return of the millennial-era vogue is more than just a revival – it’s the reveal of the fashion-worlds mindset.
In the 2000s, aside from quirky colors and ‘grunge’ vibes, fashion and beauty had one recurring theme: being pretty means being skinny. From there, society transitioned to the “go big or go home” mindset, and workouts and plastic surgeries were being catered to those who wanted to accentuate every curve. The re-emergence of y2k has made people get surgeries to undo the plastic and return to being skinny. A similar phenomenon occurred during the late 1800s, early 1900s, and mid-1900s. During the Victorian Era, fashion meant wearing tight corsets and voluminous petticoats. Starting in the 1920s, the definition changed to slimmed-down dresses and less accentuated shapes. Then, in the 1950s, actresses and models, like Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor, prompted the return of curves. The never-ending back-and-forth of what is considered “beautiful,” “desirable,” and “in-fashion” only shows how toxic and insatiable the fashion industry, and society itself, is.
This ties into the idea of fatphobia, which stems from early discrimination. Following the Enlightenment Era, Black people were perceived as people with a lack of self-control. This “lack of self-control” was prevalent in all areas of the Black people's lives, including when it came to eating food. Due to this, obesity was often connected with Black people as an inherent trait of the race. Throughout the years, this ideology manifested itself as “fatphobia,” and became an extension of racism. During these fashion eras, whether it means having or not having curves, being skinny was always a priority. This meant that fatter women were rarely ever represented and were often left out. The fashion trends excluded an entire population of women and contributed to a historic form of discrimination.
Furthermore, during the 1990s and early 2000s, a notable aspect of the fashion trends included the “heroin chic” looks. This was a response to the glowing looks found in the models of the 1980s. But, there is more to this story. The credit for the name “heroin chic” is given to the well-known drug, heroin. The 1990s marked the beginning of America’s Opioid Epidemic and led to the glamorization of drugs. During this era, heroin had become purer, cheaper, and far more accessible. The grunge-music scene also pushed the use of heroin, and drugs in general, during this time. The epidemic didn’t reach the fashion world until later. However, once it did, it had an explosive impact. Models, like Kate Moss in the Calvin Klein campaign, helped foster the “heroin chic” concept. The thin, waif-like figures, the deep and dark eye bags, and the messy hair became extremely popular. Davide Sorrenti was an infamous photographer who captured models at the peak of “heroin chic,” and sometimes they were truly on heroin in the photographs. At the age of 20, Sorrenti passed away and the “heroin chic” movement died with him.
The return of y2k signifies something else: fashion is cyclical. Compared to everything else that surrounds this aesthetic, the easy renewal of past fashion is a positive thing. With the increase in fast-fashion products that are an ethical and environmental nightmare, it’s good to see old clothes being labeled as “vintage” instead of “shabby.” Old styles can be brought back and given a new life. It’s a sign of a possibly promising future for the development of the fashion industry as new generations begin to take over.
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